Available to order now in my Etsy store.
Saturday, 5 December 2015
Friday, 27 November 2015
Black Friday Cyber Monday Crochet Blankets Sale
*** BlAcK fRiDaY/CyBeR mOnDaY Coupon Code Crochetblankets2015 = 15% OFF until 1st December, 2015. On all purchases In stock or Made to Order over £50. ***
Hop on over to my Etsy store click here.
Saturday, 21 November 2015
Monday, 16 November 2015
Picasso Inspired Crochet Granny Square Blanket
Picasso's Blue Period
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Pablo Picasso, The Old Guitarist, 1903, Art Institute of Chicago
The Blue Period (Spanish: Período Azul) is a term used to define the works produced by Spanish painter Pablo Picasso between 1901 and 1904 when he painted essentially monochromatic paintings in shades of blue and blue-green, only occasionally warmed by other colors. These somber works, inspired by Spain and painted in Barcelona and Paris, are now some of his most popular works, although he had difficulty selling them at the time.
Wednesday, 11 November 2015
Sunday, 9 August 2015
Wednesday, 10 June 2015
Jacinta Crochet Granny Square Blanket
Please Note:- I have changed the name of my to www.thesunroomuk.blogspot.com
Made to order blanket finally complete with border and on it’s way to New Zealand. This blanket measures 65” x 65”. It is available as a made to order blanket in my Etsy store here.
A gorgeous granny square blanket all crocheted together with fabulous colourful yarn and bordered in various bright, vivid happy colours. Perfect for bed or sofa and versatile enough to be used in any room in the house.This distinctive blanket is bright, cheerful and happy and reminds me of the fun fair. Would make a superb special gift and a lovely heirloom quality addition to any household.
Monday, 8 June 2015
Change of Blog Address
Please note that my old sister blog
http://www.goodtimesithinkso.blogspot.com
has changed to
http://www.thesunroomuk.blogspot.com
Sunday, 7 June 2015
Helsinki Cathedral with Crochet
How fantastic is this? I’ve been to this Cathedral but it sure didn’t look this fantastic, I think I would still be there if it did. Wow!
This week's Big Picture winner – and recipient of a Nikon Coolpix P300 camera worth £249.99 – is Peter Norris of Boxford, Suffolk, for this image of patchwork quilts on the steps outside Helsinki's cathedral, Finland.
Thursday, 29 January 2015
Attempt Worlds Largest Crochet Granny Square
Written by: Stephan Duneier
You should know, I am neither a knitter nor a crocheter. How I came to be attempting to set a world record for the largest crocheted granny square is probably more interesting than the task itself.
Each year, I set some odd resolutions for myself. Once, it was to read 50 books in the year. In another, it was to hike every trail in Santa Barbara, even though I’d never hiked in my life. 2012 was a particularly ambitious year. I set about to learn 12 new things and do 12 charitable things that didn’t involve writing a check. I called it 12 for 2012.
Wedged between learning how to use jumping stilts and drumming, was knitting, a skill suggested by my wife, Barbara. Initially, the goal was to knit a simple scarf using nothing more than the basic knit stitch. However, the result was a raggedy mess with dropped stitches and edges that expanded with the addition of every row.
What I had hoped would be a relaxing activity turned out to be one of the most frustrating to learn. I bought numerous knitting needles, including bulky wooden ones and fancy, thin metal ones connected by plastic coated wire. Unfortunately, none of it improved my stitching, or the experience itself. Regardless, completion of a project was required before I could claim that a skill had been learned, but with the scarf having become more a symbol of failure than success, I needed to come up with a new plan.
While resting under a massive eucalyptus tree, 2.6 miles up the Cold Spring Trail in the Santa Ynez Mountains, I had an epiphany. Inspired by Christo’s wrapping of the islands off the coast of Florida when I was a kid, I set a new goal to serve as evidence of my ability to knit. I endeavored to wrap that 40-foot tall tree in knitted yarn.
For the next 82 days, I loaded up on Red Heart’s Super Saver Yarn and repeated the same basic knit stitch thousands of times on airplanes, in hotel rooms, at the beach, in the hospital and even in board meetings. It didn’t take long for me to realize that in order to achieve my goal in time for the second annual International Yarn Bombing Day, I would need to recruit the help of other knitters and crocheters.
I tapped into the power of Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, Tumblr, Twitter, Ravelry and my resolution blog,12for2012.com, on WordPress. Out of sheer luck, the blog had begun attracting attention right around the same time, due to WordPress’ featuring of my unicycling related posts on their homepage. In the weeks that followed, I forged friendships with knitters and crocheters around the world and contributions of every size, shape and color imaginable began showing up at my doorstep. When I expressed concern that I would fall short of sufficiently covering the tree, thereby disappointing those who had sent me contributions, something unexpected happened. The people who had said my resolutions and yarnbomb project had inspired them, inspired me right back.
Their encouragement lit a fire under me, pushing me to redouble my efforts. This was no longer about me. It was now about all of us and it fell on my shoulders to make the yarnbomb something for which we could all be proud.
In June, on the eve of the second International Yarn Bombing Day, I packed 6 large camping backpacks with 400 square feet of yarn that I had sewn together into a collection of 52 sections, and headed off to the trailhead. My son, Jackson, a couple of friends and one total stranger showed up to help me lug it all up to the tree and install it. A rented 14-foot aluminum ladder, which 3 friends and I had hiked up the day before in 90+ degree heat, was hidden in the brush waiting for us. Under the cover of night, with the use of headlamps, a motley crew of seven volunteers, aged 16 to 65, and I installed a spectacular Seuss-like work of art in the middle of nowhere. Exhausted, at midnight we began our trek back down the mountain and dragged our dusty selves home.
Since not a single media outlet opted to cover the project, and it existed miles from civilization in a place accessible only by hiking 2.6 miles in and 2,500 feet up, it took time for people to discover it. Day after day, word of mouth spread and crowds grew larger. People who had never hiked were venturing out at the insistence of their friends and those who were familiar with the lower sections of the trail pushed themselves further than they’d ever gone, in order to see it.
Over the next nine days, I must have hiked to the tree a dozen times. I hadn’t anticipated the emotional response it would evoke from those who viewed it. Magical, is the only way to describe it.
Although many begged me to keep it up longer, the ladder was costing me money every day and I needed to focus on learning how to play the drums in time for my upcoming recital. The yarnbomb was removed and shipped to Warm Up America, a charity in North Carolina. The knitting needles and remaining yarn were promptly returned to my wife, never to be used again, or so I thought.
About 6 months later, Paula Thomson, head of a non-profit in South Africa called Woza Moya contacted me to advise her on how to go about yarnbombing a similar tree on their property. Learning that my project had inspired an installation halfway around the world was, well, pretty cool.
Early last summer, one of the contributors to my yarnbomb, Marcy Kraft, aka Crochet Grenade, requested help with a large project of her own, but she needed each contribution to be of a specific size, color and stitch. Oh, and she needed them to be crocheted which was a skill I had not yet learned. It was my turn to pay back the favor though and so I learned by watching her YouTube video. Very slowly I churned out 24 seven-inch squares according to her specifications. From there I was hooked. (No pun intended.)
I decided to try my hand at yarnbombing again. This time the target was a massive boulder, which sits one mile up the Saddlerock Trail. Marcy sent me every piece from her project plus a few more. Most of the original contributors sent me pieces again, as did a few others. Just over a month later I had crocheted dozens of squares exactly the same as those I’d made for Marcy’s project. I experimented by swapping in multiple colors in a square, but didn’t expand my repertoire much beyond that. I noticed that what was really slowing down my production was the casting on and those first few rotations of a new square.
While on a business trip in New York, it dawned on me that I could increase my productivity simply by making larger squares. I called around the city for yarn stores, but no one carried Red Heart’s Super Saver Yarn except Michael’s in Harlem. Lucky for me, they also happened to be the only store open until 10pm. As soon as I finished a business dinner, I walked 50 blocks up to Michael’s and stocked up on as many bright Red Heart skeins as I could carry. I didn’t know it at the time, but that was the beginning of my current project.
I crocheted just one square the rest of the trip, adding skein after skein. When I arrived home, I submitted an application to Guinness World Records to create a new category for the largest granny square, but it was rejected. They said it fell under the Largest Crocheted Blanket category and the current record was over 81 feet long. Not one to give up so easily, I appealed their decision, stating that a blanket could be created by literally dozens of people making small blankets simultaneously and then attaching them together. What I was proposing was a piece that only one person could work on at a time and as such, was a far different endeavor. They relented, but set a minimum size of 32′ 9″ square for a new category, Largest Crocheted Square. As insane as that randomly selected minimum might be, I now had a target.
My square is currently 11 feet on each side, which sounds like I am a third of the way there, but it’s not. You see, 11 feet squared is 121 square feet. Don’t get me wrong, that’s a big piece to work on. To provide some perspective, a jumbo skein of Red Heart’s Super Saver Yarn is needed to add just 3 double crocheted rows. In the end, if I am to set the world record for largest crocheted square, it will need to be 1,089 square feet, or 9 times bigger than what I have created so far.
Thankfully, the people at Red Heart were kind enough to step in and offer to supply the yarn necessary for me to reach that goal. Toward that end, 60 jumbo skeins recently arrived at my house. With Red Heart’s generous support, the words of encouragement from so many via Instagram (@yarnbombs), Facebook (www.facebook.com/yarnbombs) and Twitter (@yarnbombs), and of course the unwavering patience of my wife and kids, I hope to unveil the record setting piece as part of my third major yarnbomb installation Memorial Day weekend at Lizard’s Mouth in the mountains of Santa Barbara.
You can find the original article at Redheart.com click here.
Thursday, 22 January 2015
Free Crochet Pattern: Color Infused Afghan
1. Afghan is made from 21 Squares (7 each of 3 different Squares), a Ripple Panel, and a Shell Panel.
2. Squares are worked in joined rounds, with RS always facing. Panels are worked back and forth in rows.
3. Squares and Panels are joined following the Assembly Diagram.
4. A border is worked around the outside edge of assembled Afghan.Source - lionbrand.com click here.
SIZE: One Size
About 47 x 57 in. (119.5 x 145 cm), including border
STRIP I
Notes for Strip I
1. Yarn color is changed on every rnd.
2. To change color, fasten off old color and join new color in any ch-2 sp.
Square 1
With B, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), 2 dc in ring, (ch 2, 3 dc in ring) 3 times, ch 2; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 12 dc (four 3-dc groups) and 4 ch-2 sps.
Fasten off B.
Rnd 2: From RS, join H with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp (first corner made), *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner made); rep from * twice more, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 24 dc (two 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off H.
Rnd 3: From RS, join G with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 36 dc (three 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off G.
Rnd 4: From RS, join D with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 48 dc (four 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off D.
Rnd 5: From RS, join A with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) 3 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 60 dc (five 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off A.
Rnd 6: From RS, join H with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 72 dc (six 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off H.
Rnd 7: From RS, join B with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 84 dc (seven 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off.
Square 2
Work same as Square 1, working 1 rnd each with C, F, G, D, A, F, and C.
Square 3
Work same as Square 1, working 1 rnd each with I, E, G, D, A, E, and I.
Square 4
Work same as Square 1, working 1 rnd each with H, B, G, D, A, B, and H.
Square 5
Work same as Square 1, working 1 rnd each with F, C, G, D, A, C, and F.
Square 6
Work same as Square 1, working 1 rnd each with E, I, G, D, A, I, and E.
Square 7
Work same as Square 1.
STRIP II
Notes for Strip II:
1. Yarn color is changed after Rnd 2 and Rnd 4.
2. To change color, fasten off old color and join new color in any ch-2 sp.
Square 1 With C, ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), 2 dc in ring, (ch 2, 3 dc in ring) 3 times, ch 2; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 12 dc (four 3-dc groups) and 4 ch-2 sps.
Rnd 2: Sl st in each st to next ch-2 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp (first corner made), *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner made); rep from * twice more, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 24 dc (two 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off C.
Rnd 3: From RS, join F with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 36 dc (three 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Rnd 4: Sl st in each st to next ch-2 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 48 dc (four 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off F.
Rnd 5: From RS, join A with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 3 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 60 dc (five 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Rnd 6: Sl st in each st to next ch-2 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 4 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 72 dc (six 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Rnd 7: Sl st in each st to next ch-2 sp, (sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in ch-2 sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) 5 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 84 dc (seven 3-dc groups across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off.
Square 2 Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1 and 2 with G, Rnds 3 and 4 with D and Rnds 5-7 with B.
Square 3 Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1 and 2 with H, Rnds 3 and 4 with E and Rnds 5-7 with I.
Square 4 Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1 and 2 with A, Rnds 3 and 4 with F and Rnds 5-7 with C.
Square 5 Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1 and 2 with B, Rnds 3 and 4 with D and Rnds 5-7 with G.
Square 6 Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1 and 2 with I, Rnds 3 and 4 with E, and Rnds 5-7 with H.
Square 7 Work same as Square 1.
STRIP III Notes for Strip III: 1. Review the Adjustable Ring Technique before beginning.
2. To change color, fasten off old color and join new color where indicated.
Square 1
With A, make an Adjustable Ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 8 sc in ring; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off A.
Rnd 2: From RS, join I with sl st in any sc, ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 2, sc in next st) 7 times, ch 2; join with sl st in first sc – 8 sc and 8 ch-2 sps.
Fasten off I.
Rnd 3: From RS, join E with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc in this rnd and in all following rnds), 2 dc in same sp, (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) 7 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 24 dc (eight 3-dc groups) and 8 ch-1 sps.
Fasten off E.
Rnd 4: From RS, join A with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 3, dc in same ch-sp, *ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 3 sts, ch 1, sk next st, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, sk last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 32 dc (sixteen 2-dc groups) and 16 ch-1 sps.
Fasten off A.
Rnd 5: From RS, join I with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ch 2; join with sl st in first sc – 16 sc and 16 ch-2 sps.
Fasten off I.
Rnd 6: From RS, join E with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 48 dc (sixteen 3-dc groups) and 16 ch-1 sps.
Fasten off E.
Rnd 7: From RS, join A with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ch 3; join with sl st in first sc – 16 sc and 16 ch-3 sps.
Fasten off A.
Rnd 8: From RS, join I with sl st in any ch-3 sp, ch 1, 4 sc in same sp, (hdc, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next sc, (3 dc, hdc) in next ch-3 sp, *(4 sc in next ch-3 sp) twice, (hdc, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next sc, (3 dc, hdc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * twice more, 4 sc in next ch-3 sp; join with sl st in first sc – 72 sts and 4 ch-2 sps.
Fasten off I.
Rnd 9: From RS, join E with sl st in first st following any ch-2 sp, ch 1, *sc in each st to next ch-2 sp, (sc, hdc, sc) in ch-2 sp (corner made); rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc – 84 sts.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, dc in next st, *dc in each st to next corner hdc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in hdc; rep from * 3 more times, dc in last st; join with sl st in top of beg ch – 88 dc (22 dc across each of 4 sides) and 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Fasten off.
Square 2
Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1, 4 and 7 with A, Rnds 2, 5 and 8 with H, and Rnds 3, 6, 9 and 10 with I.
Square 3
Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1, 4 and 7 with A, Rnds 2, 5 and 8 with E, and Rnds 3, 6, 9 and 10 with D.
Square 4
Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1, 4 and 7 with A, Rnds 2, 5 and 8 with C, and Rnds 3, 6, 9 and 10 with B.
Square 5
Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1, 4 and 7 with A, Rnds 2, 5 and 8 with E, and Rnds 3, 6, 9 and 10 with I.
Square 6
Work same as Square 1, working Rnds 1, 4 and 7 with A, Rnds 2, 5 and 8 with F, and Rnds 3, 6, 9 and 10 with G.
Square 7
Work same as Square 1.
Joining Squares
Strip I
Following Assembly Diagram, join Squares as follows:
Hold 2 neighboring Squares with WS tog and sts matching. From RS and working through both thicknesses, join A with sc in corner ch-2 sp at beg of edge to be joined, sc in same corner ch-2 sp, sc in each st across to next corner ch-2 sp, 2 sc in corner ch-2 sp.
Fasten off.
Rep to join rem Squares of Strip I, then rep to make Strips II and III.
RIPPLE PANEL
Notes for Ripple Panel:
1. The ripple pattern is easy to do, but it's important to remember that you may need to work several rows before the ripple pattern becomes clear.
2. The ripple in this design is created by working dc3tog to form 'valleys' and 3 dc all in one st to form 'peaks'. In each row, take care to work dc3tog over the 3 sts in each 'valley' and 3 dc in the center dc of each 'peak.'
3. Yarn color is changed to make stripes. To change color, work last st of old color to last yarn over, yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete st. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.
Stripe Sequence for Ripple Panel: Work *2 rows each with F, E, I, H, G, D and B, then 1 row each with F, E, I, H, G, D and B; rep from * until 82 rows have been completed, ending with the fourth rep of a single row of G as the last row you work.
With F, ch 42.
Row 1: Dc in 5th ch from hook, dc in next 3 ch, *3 dc in next ch, dc in next 5 ch, dc3tog, dc in next 5 ch; rep from * to last 6 ch, 3 dc in next ch, dc in next 5 ch – 3 ripples.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 3 (does not count as a st), dc in next 4 sts, *3 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in next 5 sts; rep from * to last 6 dc, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts.
Change to E.
Rep Row 2 changing colors following Stripe Sequence until all 82 rows have been completed.
Change to D.
Filling Valleys
Next Row (RS): With D, ch 1, turn, sk first st, sl st in next st, ch 4 (does not count as a st), dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next 2 sts, sk next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, *tr3tog, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in next 2 sts, sk next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to last dc, tr in top of beg ch.
Fasten off.
Filling Valleys along Foundation Row
Next Row (RS) From RS, working across opposite side of foundation ch, join B with sl st in ch at base of last st of Row 1, ch 1, sc in same ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr3tog, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, *sl st in next 2 ch, sk next ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr3tog, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch; rep from * end with sl st in last st.
Fasten off.
SHELL PANEL
Notes for Shell Panel:
1. Shell Panel is worked along one edge of Strip III.
2. Color is changed to form stripes.
To change color, work last st of old color to last yarn over, yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete st. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.
Row 1: From RS and following Assembly Diagram, join A with sl st in corner ch-2 sp of Square I of Strip III, ch 1, sc in same sp, *(sk next 2 dc, Shell in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc) 3 times, sk next 2 dc, Shell in next dc, sk next dc, sc in seam between Square; rep from * 5 more times, (sk next 2 dc, Shell in next dc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc) 3 times, sk next 2 dc, Shell in next dc, sk next dc, sc in corner ch-2 sp – 28 Shells.
Change to C.
Row 2: With C, ch 5 (counts as dc, ch 2), turn, sc in ch-1 sp of first Shell, ch 2, dc in next sc, *ch 2, sc in ch-1 sp of next Shell, ch 2, dc in next sc; rep from * across – 28 sc, 29 dc, and 56 ch-2 sps.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), turn, 2 dc in same st, *sc in next sc, Shell in next dc; rep from * to last sc, sc in last sc, 3 dc in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 – 27 Shells and one 3-dc group at beg and end of row.
Change to H.
Row 4: With H, ch 1, turn, sc in first st, ch 2, dc in next sc, *ch 2, sc in ch-1 sp of next Shell, ch 2, dc in next sc; rep from * to last 3 dc, sk next 2 dc, ch 2, sc in top of beg ch.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, *Shell in next dc, sc in next sc; rep from * across.
Change to G.
Rows 6 and 7: With G, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Change to A.
Rows 8 and 9: With A, rep Rows 4 and 5.
Change to C.
Rows 10 and 11: With C, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Change to B.
Rows 12 and 13: With B, rep Rows 4 and 5.
Change to D.
Rows 14 and 15: With D, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Change to A.
Rows 16 and 17: With A, rep Rows 4 and 5.
Change to C.
Rows 18 and 19: With C, rep Rows 2 and 3.
Change to F.
Rows 20 and 21: With F, rep Rows 4 and 5.
Change to A.
Rows 22 - 24: With A, rep Rows 2-4.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Notes
1. Follow Assembly Diagram while joining pieces.
If desired, pin pieces tog before joining.
2. When joining, you will be working through 2 thicknesses. After working a few sts, pause to examine your work. You may want to work more or fewer sts to make an attractive edge.
Join Strip II and Shell Panel
Hold Strip II and Shell Panel with WS tog and long edges matching. From RS and working through both thicknesses, join A with sc in first corner, sc evenly spaced all the way across the long edges.
Fasten off.
Join Strip II and Ripple Panel
Hold Strip II and Ripple Panel tog with WS tog and long edges matching. With A, join in same way as previous joining.
Join Ripple Panel and Strip I
With A, join in same way as previous joining.
Border
From RS, join A with sl st anywhere along outside edge of Afghan.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly spaced all the way around outer edge, working (sc, hdc, sc) in each corner; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work rev sc around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Sunday, 18 January 2015
Highland Home Tartan Plaid Afghan
Source - Freevintagecrochet.com
MATERIALS:
CHADWICK'S RED HEART KNITTING WORSTED, 4 Ply, Art. E.232: 36 skeins (1 oz. "Tangle-Proof" Pull-Out Skeins) of No. 12 Black; 24 skeins of No. 909 Scarlet and 3 skeins of No. 230 Yellow.
Clark's O.N.T. Plastic Crochet Hook No. 3.
GAUGE: 3 sps make 1 inch; 2 ½ rows make 1 inch.
WIDE STRIP (Make 4) . . . Starting at narrow edge with Black, ch 68. 1st row: Dc in 6th ch from hook, * ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch. Repeat from * across (32 sps). Ch 4, turn. 2nd row: Skip first dc, * dc in next dc, ch 1. Repeat from * across, ending with dc in last dc, ch 1, skip 1 ch of turning chain, dc in next ch. Ch 4, turn. Repeat 2nd row 5 more times, omitting turning chain on last row. Drop Black, attach Yellow. Next row: Ch 4 and work in pattern across. Break off Yellow. Following row: Pick up Black, ch 4 and work in pattern across. Ch 4, turn. Work in pattern with Black for 6 more rows. Break off. Attach Scarlet and work in pattern for 3 rows, omitting turning chain on last row. Drop Scarlet, attach Black and work in pattern across. Break off. Pick up Scarlet, (make 3 Scarlet rows, 1 Black row) 3 times and 3 Scarlet rows. Break off Scarlet. Attach Black and make another Black Section with Yellow stripe as before. Continue in this manner, making Black and Scarlet sections alternately until 11 sections in all have been completed (6 Black and 5 Scarlet).
NARROW STRIP (Make 1) . . . With Black, ch 38. 1st row: Work as for first row of Wide Strip (17 sps). Work in color pattern exactly as for Wide Strip.
WEAVING . . . Place Afghan lengthwise on a curtain stretcher—it will be easier to handle this way. However, it may be done without the use of a curtain stretcher.
Cut 2 strands of Black each 80 inches long, thread these strands into a bodkin and weave in and out through first row of sps, leaving enough yarn free at each end to make fringe. Cut 2 more strands of Black and weave through same row of sps, going under rows that were passed over previously. Weave Black through next 7 rows the same way. Make 1 row of Yellow and 8 Black. This completes 1 Black Section. Now make (3 rows of Scarlet, 1 row of Black) 3 times and 3 rows of Scarlet. This completes 1 Scarlet Section. Continue to work in pattern, alternating Scarlet and Black Sections until all sps have been filled.
Remove from curtain stretcher. Knot first 12 strands together to make a fringe. Make fringe, knotting every 12 strands across. Complete other end to correspond. Trim ends evenly. Block to measurements.
Saturday, 17 January 2015
When They’re Gone They’re Gone…Crochet Blankets
A final round up of the last few blankets that I have on promotional sale on Etsy. Just click the links below the photos to visit my Etsy Store.
20% Off Rainbow Carousel Granny Square Blanket.
20% off Serendipity Granny Square Blanket - In Stock.
20% off Sublime Daisy Granny Square Blanket - Made to Order.
20% Off Pink Fizz Lime Green Baby Blanket.
My personal favourite, Sunburst in Snow Granny Square Crochet Blanket 25% off In Stock.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
